St. Eustatius: Tranquility, Nature, History
Hidden Treasure: Statia's Blue Beads

St. Eustatius: Tranquility, Nature, History

St. Eustatius is a delightful step back into the rich and colorful history of the Caribbean, and a peek into the future of ecotourism.

Starting 2,500 years ago with the arrival of the Saladoid people from South America, through various fierce battles between Dutch, British and French occupiers, Statia (as it is also known) has emerged as “the historical gem” of the Caribbean.

Prosperity on the island flourished under Dutch occupation, when more than 600 warehouses were built and packed to capacity with the world’s riches for trade. Plantations sprung up, and crops were raised. So great was her prosperity that Statia was dubbed “the golden rock.” As many as 200 trading ships would be in the harbor each day, and free trade attracted a diverse population of Jewish merchants, black marketeers, plantation owners, slaves and military people. Trade inspired the many battles fought for possession of the island.

Taking the Historical Walking Tour of Oranjestad, offered by the local historical society, will plunge you straight into the amazing history of this tiny island. Discover the ruins of the old warehouses in Gallows Bay. Check out the Old Gin House, a former warehouse now serving as Statia’s foremost guesthouse. The walk will take you up the slave path to the Roman Catholic church, with beautiful views from the Fort Oranje battlements, and on to Honen Dalim, the remains of the old Jewish synagogue.

The roads are paved beautifully in brick, and shady trees surround Governors Guest House and Museum. While at Fort Oranje, take note of the plaque on the wall as you enter. It tells the tale of St. Eustatius being the first country to recognize the newly formed United States of America. A customary gun salute by arriving vessels and the customary acknowledgement by the fort resulted in Commander de Graaf saluting the American brigantine USS Andrew Doria and her unfamiliar flag.

Don’t leave without the Walking Tour Guide, sold at the museum. It is a great souvenir of information and photographs, and it clearly outlines the island’s captivating story.

After exploring Oranjestad on foot, take a scenic tour to some of the many military sites, cemeteries and old plantation ruins. The tour would not be complete without a visit to the Miriam C. Schmidt Botanical Gardens operated by STENAPA, the national parks board of St. Eustatius. The gardens protect endangered plants and are a delight to stroll through. Enjoy the sensory garden or admire views of St. Kitts from a shady bench.

For the more active visitor, hikes guided by rangers are available along the many trails that Statia has to offer. The Quill is the dominant (but dormant) volcano, which rises majestically to 2,000 feet as the island’s main land mass. Originally known by Dutch settlers as Kuil, meaning pit, it was renamed Quill by English settlers. “Pit” refers to the enormous crater that supports a lush tropical rain forest. Hikes along the rim reveal rare orchids, giant cotton silk trees and a variety of birds and reptiles. Look for large tree ferns, begonias and elephant ears.

If the warm clear waters surrounding St. Eustatius beckon, then you will be delighted to know that the marine park has been hailed as “the best-kept secret of the Caribbean.” As a result of marine-park protection, Statia is one of the top-five dive destinations in the Caribbean for healthy fish populations and corals.

The sinking of the Charlie Brown in 2003, a 327-foot cable-laying vessel, has added to the great wreck diving available. Golden Rock Dive Shop, Dive Statia and Scubaqua will take you to mushroom gardens, pristine reefs and wreck sites. Statia is famous for common sightings of flying gurnards, only now being discovered. Several dive areas reveal up to a dozen of these unusual and spectacular fish. They are considered to be fairly uncommon in the Caribbean.

Golden Rock dive leaders Michelle and Glenn also offer snorkel trips, excellent after hiking the town and touring the island. Divers are welcome to join in the shallows. With any luck, and especially after storms or ground swells, some of Statia’s illustrious blue beads may be revealed. Used extensively during the 1600s and 1700s by the Dutch East India Trading Co., blue beads were used throughout the world for trade and as payment for slaves. In the famous story, the Dutch purchased Manhattan from the indigenous people for just 30 blue beads.

Folklore holds that, after emancipation, former slaves went to the cliffs above Lower Town and threw their beads over. To this day, snorkelers and divers sometimes find them.

Statia has three beaches, but not the typical vision of white sand and palm trees. Indeed, the volcanic sand is black or brown: Oranje Bay has little sand now, but there is enough to stretch out between dives or to launch a snorkeling tour.

Zeelandia Beach is about two miles long and deserted. There is an undertow, and, although not recommended for swimming, it is ideal for sunbathing, beach hiking and a chance to spot turtles nesting.

Lynch Beach, on the Atlantic side, is small with light brown sand. There is a slight undertow, but the water remains quite shallow and is great for kids.

Statia is accessible with daily flights by Winair and high-speed ferry runs by Edge, departing from Pelican Marina on St. Maarten.

Great accommodations can be found at the beautifully restored Old Gin House, complete with ocean views, a relaxing splash pool and close proximity to the dive shops. Kingswell Hotel presents spectacular views and unforgettable sunsets, along with an honor bar and the pleasant company of owners Win and Laura.

Blue Bead Restaurant, Smoke Alley and the Old Gin House, in Lower Town, serve up delicious meals to hungry hikers and divers. In town, try Ocean Terrace, with views over Fort Oranje for an unbeatable local plate.

Spend a day or spend a while. Either way, you will be touched by the tranquil nature and fascinating history of St. Eustatius.

Hidden Treasure: Statia's Blue Beads

In Statia, the search for tiny blue beads is a pastime of locals and visitors in the know. But why? Well, these beads are representative of Statia's unique history: hundreds of years ago, they originated in Amsterdam and made their way to the Dutch West Indies through the seafaring ships of Dutch East India Company. The beads were used to value the enslaved African captives and have appeared all over the New World. Many of these beads were stored in Statia and were used as payment for wages and bartering until the time of emancipation. According to local folklore, after emancipation the folklore explains that Statians went to the cliffs and threw their beads into the sea, signifying their release from slavery and ability to earn real money. And it's said that once you find a bead, you are forever connected to Statia and will return again and again. Happy hunting!