St. Eustatius: The Historical Gem of the Caribbean
Hidden Treasure: Statia's Blue Beads

St. Eustatius: The Historical Gem of the Caribbean

By Paul Boetkees

St. Eustatius, or as the locals call it, Statia, is located just 33 miles south of St. Maarten. Because you can only get here by air on a flight operated by Winair (www.fly-winair.com), this island, with its historical buildings and sites, is often overlooked as a possible day trip. But those of you who enjoy some adventure will surely be amazed by this island, which is inhabited by 2,600 friendly and peaceful Statians. You will be transported to a place that exists in a time warp where honor bars exist; you take only pictures, leave only footprints and have a wonderful time.

The once bustling town along the harbor front saw tons of commodities traded daily, thanks to the Dutch designating Statia as a "free port." But the prosperity was short-lived. European powerswere fighting each other, and England was engaged in a war with its rebellious American Colonies. Stroll along the historical core based around Fort Oranje, built by the Dutch in 1636. When you walk the gunnery paths on the fort, you see exactly what Johannes de Graaf saw when he fired a gun salute in 1776 to the brigantine USS Andrew Doria. This resulted in the island of Statia being the first country in the world to recognize the then-newly formed United States of America. America's founding fathers so revered Statia that Benjamin Franklin would only send his mail to Europe via St. Eustatius. In retaliation for Statia's action, British Admiral George Brydges Rodney plundered the island—all the ships were confiscated, the warehouses were pillaged and he expelled every Jewish male, decimating the community. Statia plunged into obscurity. Many houses in the historical core have been renovated to their original style. A must-visit is the St. Eustatius Historical Foundation Museum in a gem of a house called Simon Doncker's house. There you will find much information on the history of Statia and amazing artifacts. Just talk to the friendly guides, and they will tell you more about it.

The best way to explore historical Oranjestad is on foot. Nowhere else in the Caribbean can you see such a perfect example of an 18th-century port town. Bring your camera and be intrigued about how much historical detail is still visible. You'll see, for instance, the old sugar kettles in the yards and traditional stone ovens where locals still bake bread. visit the old Government guest House and one of the oldest synagogues in the Western Hemisphere, Hone Dalim; the graveyard was recently restored and the gravestones—some written in Ladino, English and Hebrew—tell the story of the island and her people.

Statia is also a natural wonder with an emphasis on ecotourism. Since 1996, the St. Eustatius National Parks Foundation has administered three national parks to protect the high biodiversity and the unique torpical ecosystem on land and in the sea. The foundation's activities include protecting critically endangered species and nonitoring three types of sea turtles. A new orchid was recently discovered on the island, and the news resonated in the worldwide orchid community.

The island is dominated by an extinct volcano called the Quill that is 2,000 feet above sea level. The crater is surrounded by a lush tropical rainforest filled with exotic tropical flora and features the Miriam C. Smith Botanical arden. There are many hiking trails at various levels that are pristine and offer superb panoramic views of the island. It is recommended you make a reservation three days in advance with the office of STENAPA (www.statiapark.org/email: info@statiapark.org). The Old Gin House and its beautiful gardens and gourmet restaurant serve as a great base for a day trip or an overnight visit. The Gin House is a charming inn with amazing features in a historic 18th-century building that once housed a cotton gin operation.

The other natural bounty of the island is underwater and can be explored by renting some snorkeling equipment. There's an old seawall about 25 yards off the coast where all the old warehouses used to stand. Watch the turtles, octopuses and lots of reef fish and coral while looking for undiscovered artifacts. Perhaps you'll be lucky and find one of the illustrious blue beads. Diving is a grea sport on Statia with amazing shipwrecks to explore and reefs teeming with aquatic life. Golden Rock Dive Center at The Old Gin House can arrange for diving. No diver can leave Statia without visiting the Charles L. Brown, an old cable-laying ship that was sunk to create an artifical reef. The friendly and welcoming residents of Statia are determined to protect all their island has to offer.

Hidden Treasure: Statia's Blue Beads

In Statia, the search for tiny blue beads is a pastime of locals and visitors in the know. But why? Well, these beads are representative of Statia's unique history: hundreds of years ago, they originated in Amsterdam and made their way to the Dutch West Indies through the seafaring ships of Dutch East India Company. The beads were used to value the enslaved African captives and have appeared all over the New World. Many of these beads were stored in Statia and were used as payment for wages and bartering until the time of emancipation. According to local folklore, after emancipation the folklore explains that Statians went to the cliffs and threw their beads into the sea, signifying their release from slavery and ability to earn real money. And it's said that once you find a bead, you are forever connected to Statia and will return again and again. Happy hunting!