Beachy Keen: Sand, Sun and Fun in St. Maarten/St. Martin

By Melanie Reffes

From the sun-kissed shores of St. Maarten to the mountain-coddled coves of St. Martin, this beautiful island is graced with beaches that are among the finest in the Caribbean. Lapped by shimmering azure waves and crowned by tie-dyed sunsets, 37 sandy slivers between the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea are the stuff of fairy tales and happy endings. Whether for sunbathing, snorkeling, sailing or simply relaxing on a lounge chair, St. Maarten/St. Martin is a magical mix of powdery sand that tickles the toes and sunny skies that warm the soul.

Making Waves
Close to a mile long, Dawn Beach is white-sandy splendor framed by lofty emerald mountains. Snorkeling is sublime with coral reefs chock-full of tropical fish in rainbow hues. For those big on perfecting the fine art of doing nothing, beach chairs and umbrellas are aplenty. And when the surf is up, boogie boarding is as good as it gets.

On the southern coast, Little Bay Beach is guarded by the outcrop of Fort Amsterdam and a seashell away from the hustle and bustle of Philipsburg. With calm waters in coves, rocky beach breaks and brilliant underwater visibility, the beach is popular with divers, jet skiers, paddleboat enthusiasts and snorkelers. Talc sand is ideal for families with children, and with restaurants and bars dotting the sand, the beach is an idyllic spot to spend a sunny afternoon in St. Maarten.

Surf’s Up
Facing east, Guana Bay is all about surfboards and handsome dudes who ride the waves. Favored by strong swimmers, the beach is an awesome spot for photo snapping and enjoying an unhurried, seaside lunch.

Bordering the island’s only 18-hole golf course, Mullet Bay Beach is nirvana for surfers and those relaxing under the sea grape trees that grow along the southern strip. Lively with locals on the weekends, the one snack bar on the beach is revered for delectable burgers. For a one-of-a-kind St. Maarten/St. Martin experience, at sunset find a spot on shore and watch the sun sink behind the horizon. On a clear day you may even spot neighboring Saba.

Something Blue
Running parallel to the Princess Juliana International Airport runway, Simpson Bay Beach is a mile-long swath where watching the sun set as the jets take off is as popular as a cool dip in the ocean. Get there early for a glimpse of the eager fishermen who push off before sunrise in search of a big catch.

Pelican Key is not only beautiful, but also close to the action in Simpson Bay, with its bevy of restaurants, bars, casinos and clubs. Ideal for snorkeling in the calm water, the beach is also adored by those who enjoy a sultry stroll as the sun sets.

Unfolding in front of the Dutch capital of Philipsburg, Great Bay Beach is renowned for the gigantic cruise ships that stop in the harbor every day. Adored by people watchers, the beach is long enough for an early-morning jog, or you can simply spend an afternoon sipping a frosty beer from one of the many vendors lining the Boardwalk. For a break from the midday sun, the shops on Front Street stay open until the cruise ships head back to sea.

The only clothing-optional beach on the Dutch side of the island, Cupecoy Beach is a spectacular spot for sunset viewing, and with its striking sandstone cliffs and gentle coves, it is one of the most adored beaches on the island. Sheltered from the wind, the beach invites those who want to top off their tan or take a refreshing plunge in the sea.

Action Central
At the far eastern tip of Simpson Bay Beach, Kim Sha Beach starts at the channel and leads into the lagoon. A popular starting point for scenic boat trips, the beach is also conveniently close to the nightlife that keeps Simpson Bay buzzing till the wee hours. With a tranquil surf and shelter from the reef, the beach is home to mega-yachts that anchor overnight. At night, parties by the shore keep the pretty party people partying, and when the sun sets, sipping a “sun downer” cocktail is what grand vacations are all about.

One of the most fashionable beaches on the island, Maho Beach is the spot for views of giant jets landing and taking off from the airport; and many people come by to take pictures of the big planes. A few yards from the runway, which measures just 7,152 feet, aviation buffs lie on the sand in full view of the underbelly of a 747 jet as it touches down or takes off. Flight arrival and departure times are posted in most of the bars on the beach, and in the Sunset Beach Bar and Grill, a speaker broadcasts the radio conversations between pilots and the control tower. Also popular with skim boarders and windsurfers who come for Maho’s large waves, the jovial bar is the hangout of choice for those who covet a frozen mudslide with a side order of reggae.

Très Magnifique
Heading over the mountain from French Cul-de-Sac on the French side of the island, Anse Marcel Beach is a sight to behold between the northern hills and the valley. Secluded and splendid, the beach offers awe-inspiring views coveted by even amateur photographers. Facing north toward Anguilla, the beach is a favorite of lovebirds who sing the praises of its calm waters and romantic vibe.

Nuzzled between bars, chichi eateries and cozy resorts, Grand Case Beach fronts the culinary capital in French St. Martin. Watching sailboats anchor off shore and digging into a succulent lobster grilled at one of the lolos, which are informal outdoor barbecue restaurants, makes for an enchanting afternoon.

It’s deserted with no hotels or restaurants, yet Tintamarre, located five miles from the coast of St. Martin, is one of the most iconic beaches. Famous for the iron-rich, dark clay found in its coves, the isolated isle is frequented by those who enjoy a holistic mud bath followed by a cleansing rinse in clear-blue water.

At Orient Beach, sunbathers prefer their birthday suit to a bathing suit. The largest au naturel beach in the Caribbean, the clothing-optional stretch is a bonanza of spirited beach bars, watersport facilities and gourmet restaurants. Sizzling under the noon sun, the randy beach heats up at night with live concerts on the sand and sunset toasting with Champagne-filled flutes.

Critter Care In The Caribbean

By Melanie Reffes

Ask Pamela Sims about the time she lured a green monkey out of the hills by placing a few apples in a cage, and you’ll hear one of many tales about the animals of St. Maarten. From cats and dogs to birds and iguanas—and yes, green monkeys—island critters are well taken care of, courtesy of Pamela Sims and the other volunteers who staff the St. Maarten Animal Welfare Foundation. “I came home one day to a message from an islander who said a green monkey was eating his wife’s orchids,” she says from the Foundation’s booth at Dock St. Maarten. “I immediately headed out to deal with the situation, because monkeys can become a real nuisance if not handled properly.”

With an enthusiastic team, one animal ambulance and the donated services of three veterinarians, the Foundation aids animals in distress, arranges pet sterilizations and finds homes for strays. Funded mostly through donations, the Foundation sells T-shirts, bags and caps from their booth near the boardwalk, and hosts dog shows, dog walkathons and wine tastings to raise money for their tireless work with animals.

“We also distribute educational materials to every school child on the Dutch side,” Sims says, describing the outreach program. The Foundation’s goal is a Christmas without puppies, because people give them as gifts and by February, they can often get tired of them. Reducing the number of homeless animals is a priority, and through the Foundation’s efforts, strays are less visible on the island. “We are very proud of this achievement,” she says. “It is not only good for the animals, but also good for our tourism product.” Tel. (599) 520-8887

Seeing Green

Green is fast becoming St. Maarten/St. Martin's favorite color as residents and visitors band together to preserve the natural treasures that inspire love at first sight — the rolling hills, the precious and nurturing mangroves, the sandy beaches and the spectacular underwater life.

As a bustling tourist destination, the demand for more hotels, villas and condos is insatiable — and oftentimes they are built at the expense of the island's natural environment.

Fighting back are several conservation and nature groups, such as Nature Foundation St. Maarten, St. Maarten Pride, Ocean Care, Environmental Protection in the Caribbean and Reserve Naturelle on the French side.

Focusing their efforts on educating residents and visitors, these groups take on developers, polluters and the government in their quest to ensure that the island remains a tropical paradise for years to come.

The filling in of Philipsburg's Great Salt Pond has been an ongoing battle between environmentalists and the government for many years. The pond, once the site of the island's main economic activity (salt harvesting), is now a symbol of times past. Great Salt Pond collects the runoff from the hills in times of heavy rains and hurricanes. As the population increases, the need for more infrastructure has led to land reclamation, raising fear that the holding capacity of this natural water basin has diminished.

Another historical site under threat is Emilio Wilson Estate, a former sugar plantation, in Cul de Sac. Strong opposition from the community to a proposed luxury residential development on the estate has led to the government taking steps to make it a monument. Aside from the historical ruins, which include a slave village, the estate is also ecologically valuable. A team from the New York Botanical Garden discovered a primitive leafy cactus on the estate and never-before-recorded moss and lichens.

Mullet Pond, a section of Simpson Bay Lagoon, is surrounded by red, white and black mangroves. It is a nursery for shrimp, fish and a variety of other underwater life. Despite its ecological importance, this natural water filter's future is hanging in the balance as plans to redevelop the hurricane-ravaged Mullet Bay Resort gain momentum. Environmental groups that have closed ranks to form the Mullet Pond Coalition are engaged in fierce lobbying to zone the pond as a protected area.

Beaches around the island are also under threat of being closed off to the public. While all beaches are currently public, some property owners have tried to limit access.

Sea turtles are also affected by the overcrowding of beaches that are flooded by too much light. Sea turtles return annually to beaches where they've hatched with their clutch of eggs. However, the numbers coming ashore are dwindling because of too much human activity and harsh outdoor lighting that disorients them.

These battles being waged by environmentalists and conservationists are only the upper leaves of the mangrove forests. To preserve the island's natural beauty, its beaches and wetlands, visitors and residents alike are urged by the groups to help save the green!

Local St. Maarten/St. Martin Secrets

Every destination has its hidden gems and St. Maarten/Martin is no exception. Some of our best lie offshore, but don't fret: You won't have to swim or wade to these. Most are only a short boat ride away from the eastern coast. Come along as we explore the uninhabited French islands of Pinel, Green Cay and Tintamarre.

Pinel. This protected nature reserve boasts a calm and sheltered beach, perfect for families. Lunch, beach chairs and umbrellas are available, and there's also great hiking. Pinel is only a five-minute ferry ride from French Cul de Sac, with two boats ferrying island lovers back and forth between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. (be sure and check with your boat captain for his last pick-up time). Don't leave without trying the homemade banana rum at the Caribuni Restaurant.

Green Cay. Spectacular. Romantic. Paradisiacal. You may not find the right words to describe Green Cay, the smallest of the three islands. This deserted and uninhabited isle is perfect for suntanning and romantic interludes. There are no services, so visitors must bring necessities, like water, food and sun block.

Tintamarre. The sheltered bay here attracts lots of boaters, and the island is renowned for the rumored healing powers of its mud baths. You'll find the rather uninviting mud just beyond the tree line. Lather it on, let it dry and then rinse. Your skin will feel silky smooth afterwards. Visitors are occasionally treated to the sight of whales and dolphins cavorting around this magical island.

Nature Foundation: Protecting Our Feathered Friends

St. Maarten is home to almost 200 species of birds. Some species are year-round residents; others come here in the winter to escape the harsh weather in North America.

Their time here is crucial, since they need to rest and gather strength for the busy summer breeding season. Environmental Protection In the Caribbean (EPIC) is an environmental organization that has partnered with the Nature Foundation of St. Martin and Royal Caribbean International to protect birds on the island, involving both residents and guests. In fact, the partners have set up bird-watching facilities at Fresh Pond and Little Bay Pond. Here are some of their tips to protect our feathered friends, who are good indicators of ecological health.

• Protect and restore important bird habitats, such as ponds, mangroves, and forests.
• Create a bird habitat in your own backyard by planting native trees and flowers.
• Don't feed birds human food; it's unhealthy and can artificially increase the population, which changes the natural balance.
• Pick up trash, especially plastics such as grocery bags and fishing line; birds may consume or get tangled in this refuse and die.
• Support conservation activities by donating time, money or materials.

To learn more about EPIC and what else you can do to protect the environment, visit epicislands.org or naturefoundationsxm.org.

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On your tour around the island, sample the island's cuisine. Use our restaurant guide to help plan as well as a handy guide to activities and sights here.