A Salty Past: History of a Friendly Island

By Donald Rodrigue

Ask any old-timer you see hanging around downtown Philipsburg, St. Maarten, how the town has changed over the years, and most likely he’ll tell you it hasn’t. Even with the thousands of cruise ship passengers arriving weekly to peruse the goods of dozens of shops—the entire island was declared a duty-free port more than 50 years ago—this city home to some 1,300 inhabitants has maintained the charming character of a small Caribbean village.

Founded by Dutch navy captain John Philips in 1763, Philipsburg occupies a narrow strip of land between the Great Salt Pond and Great Bay. For more than two centuries, the city’s economy revolved around salt harvesting, one of the factors that drew the Dutch here in the first place.

The island was first spotted by Christopher Columbus on November 11, 1493, the feast day for St. Martin of Tours, and so was baptized in honor of that celebration. Now both the French and Dutch sides use that same date to celebrate their peaceful coexistence. 

In fact, when the Dutch first arrived, there was already a small French settlement of more than 14 families in what is now known as Quartier d’Orléans.

The Dutch soon began construction of Fort Amsterdam on a peninsula jutting out into Great Bay, but the bastion was captured by the Spanish in 1633. The ongoing struggle between the Dutch and Spanish in the Caribbean was related to the two nations’ involvement in the Eighty Years’ War in Europe. The Spanish were determined not to lose the island again, so they reinforced Fort Amsterdam and also constructed a second fortification across the bay. You can still view remnants of the Old Spanish Fort in Monte Vista, a community nestled at the tip of the Pointe Blanche Peninsula.

Although effective vantage points, the forts offered no sure protection for the city because the cannonball range was insufficient to cover all of 1,600-meter-wide Great Bay, leaving a space through which pirates and other enemies could lay siege to the island. This flaw enabled the Spanish to reclaim the island in 1633.

Stung by the loss of their provisioning station between the Dutch colonies of New Netherland (New York) and New Holland (Brazil) and reeling from the loss of salt revenues, the Dutch set out to reclaim the fort though a counterattack led by Peter Stuyvesant in 1644. Stuyvesant, the last governor of New Netherland and the director of the Dutch West Indies Company, lost a leg in the attack—which was a failure—and was left with a peg leg for the rest of his days.

Although disappointed, the Dutch didn’t have to wait too long to recoup their lost salt revenues. Deciding to concentrate more on Puerto Rico, the Spanish abandoned Philipsburg and set sail out of Great Bay permanently in 1648. Today, the French-Dutch borders of Soualiga, the Carib name for the island that means “Land of Salt,” are simply marked with welcome signs along the roads. These unique border crossings enable visitors to plant one foot in France and the other in the Netherlands.

Driven by their desire to share the island in harmony and mutually reap the benefits of this strategically positioned island, the Dutch and French settlers structured the agreement that would guide this dual-island nation upon signing the Treaty of Concordia on March 23, 1648. The treaty formed the smallest territory shared by two sovereign powers: the Netherlands and France.

The Dutch side on the southern part of the island officially forms part of the Netherlands Antilles, the three partners that comprise the Dutch Kingdom. The French side is an “overseas collectivity” of France.

Many people question why the French side boasts more terrain than the Dutch side. Folk legend lays the blame on the Dutch love of drinking gin. As the story goes, a Dutchman carrying a large flask of gin and a Frenchman carrying a bottle of wine set out walking in opposite directions to define the border, which would be determined by the spot in which they met face-to-face. Standing back-to-back, they began the walk. The Dutchman paused frequently to swig from his gin, while the Frenchman took slow, measured sips of his wine. Naturally, the Frenchman was able to cover more ground quickly, and the Dutch ended up with less land.

The island’s economy was originally driven by salt production and plantation-style crops of salt, cocoa, sugar, cotton and coffee, all harvested by slaves imported from Africa. Europe and the United States were the island’s primary trading partners.

St. Maarten/St. Martin was extremely prosperous, but all that came crashing down with the abolition of slavery in 1848 on the French side, and the Dutch side’s decision to do the same in 1863. Salt still ruled as king until demand from the United States dwindled in the early 20th century. Many of the salt pickers left the island afterward in search of their fortunes in South America and other parts of the Caribbean. Dutch-side salt production completely shut down in 1949, while French production continued until 1967.

The population of the island began to shrink, and the island had no viable economic activity on the horizon. The rebirth of the island’s economy lay in the increasing popularity of air travel and visitors drawn by the miles of sugar-sand beaches. The economy really began to take off after the government decided to remove all import and export duties in 1939, as well as construct the Princess Juliana International Airport in 1943. Small hotels and other lodgings soon began to pop up all over the island. The island’s new duty-free status led to the opening of boutiques and shops offering all kinds of items along Front Street—the city’s primary thoroughfare—such as designer jewelry, clothing, liquor and electronics. While perusing the duty-free goods, be sure to check out one of the city’s most historic buildings, the Courthouse, built in 1793. The structure is a quaint wooden building topped with a pretty cupola. You will also find the Simartin Museum on Front Street, which offers interesting displays of artifacts from the island’s original inhabitants, the Arawaks.

Because of the island’s duty-free status and the construction of its airport—which got a glittering new terminal in 2006—the island now boasts a thriving, vibrant tourism industry, the driving force behind the island’s economy. Soon the island residents who had previously migrated to other parts of the world in search of work began to come home to take advantage of the opportunities available in the booming tourism industry.

The passengers from cruise ships began arriving at the wooden A.C. Wathey Pier in Pointe Blanche about 40 years ago, and now generate the majority of the island’s income. Destroyed by Hurricane Luis in 1995, the pier was subsequently rebuilt, and a new facility, the Dr. A.C. Wathey Cruise and Cargo Facilities, has been built to accommodate up to four large cruise vessels at a time.

To keep up with growing cruise ship demand, a second pier able to accommodate up to two 220,000-ton cruise ships is in the works.

Before long, tourists from every corner of the globe began to flood in, and now more than 104 nationalities call the island home. Their diverse cultures flavor everything from local cuisine to the arts. St. Maarten/St. Martin’s world-class restaurants and tiny eateries have now earned the island the title of the Culinary Capital of the Caribbean.

New Antilles

By Els Kroon

The restructuring of the Netherlands Antilles within the Kingdom of the Netherlands, which includes St. Maarten, is in full swing. In 2010, the constitutional transition period may finally conclude, and new political entities are expected to emerge. The challenge for this process is to focus on the well-being of Netherlands Antilles residents and their visitors.

St. Maarten and Curaçao will become countries within the larger Kingdom of the Netherlands, headed by the queen and the prime minister. Saba, St. Eustatius and Bonaire will become “special municipalities.” With the strengthening of the administration, the rescheduling of debt and a broad package of social and economic measures, Dutch island governance should restart in a stronger position. Because public finance is of crucial importance for residents and visitors alike, greater financial supervision is being implemented.

The new countries, St. Maarten and Curaçao, are expected to debut by the end of 2010, once their essential laws and -regulations are completed.

What's In A Name?

Getting lost in St. Maarten/St. Martin is an almost impossible task—and not because the island covers only 37 square miles. One main highway circles it, and staying on this path will take you through the changing landscapes, from bustling neighborhoods to rolling, velvety green hills.

The transition from one neighborhood to another is easily recognizable by the curious street names found printed on green reflective signs and on some maps that lay out paradise for you to explore. Many of the signs bear the Dutch words steeg, meaning alley, and straat, or street, as a subtle reminder of the link to The Netherlands. Rue, the French word for street, will become evident on the northern side of the island that is the westernmost part of the Republic of France.

In Philipsburg, the tiny alleyways pay homage to some of the oldest families who settled here over time and to salt picking, the main economic activity for many centuries. A notable alleyway is von Romondtsteeg, where the oldest descendant of the family lived well into his late 90s. Zoutsteeg (Salt Alley) used to be one of the main transportation routes to move salt from Great Salt Pond to awaiting Europe-bound ships in the bay.

Sitting on the southern tip of St. Maarten/St. Martin, Pointe Blanche's streets have the names of its oldest residents: the birds. It's easy to see how Ground Dove Road gets its name. A quick drive through it will send flocks of the brown birds into the air.

The sound of the ocean echoes in Guana Bay. Its street names, including Queen Couch and Ivory Shell, give a distinctive beachy feel to the neighborhood.

Middle Region's streets are a tour of the Caribbean; they bear the names of islands and countries in the region.

Artistic types will find the names of prominent painters gracing the streets of historic Madame Estate. People are the theme in the Dutch Quarter. Here, the names often reflect the old families whose land they cut across.

Old plantation names are revived in Belvedere. One of the newest neighborhoods, its street names keep a link to the area's past as part of the old sugar plantation from which its name is derived.

St. Peters/South Reward was the primary source of food for the island. The freshest vegetables and fruits were collected by the cartloads. Today, the fruit trees still sway in the wind—but the delicious-sounding names are the ones rich with history.

Fortification and defense play a prominent role in the winding hillside trails of Little Bay. Belair and Cay Hill are where all things wild roam. The streets have names such as Puma and Otter.

Evergreen, Cedar, Oak and Cashew are on the list of names that define Cole Bay, one of the largest and oldest neighborhoods. The letter "W" also surfaces in many of the names.

Simpson Bay, a fishing village that has grown into a bustling little town, keeps its old-time charm and its original residents' firm ties to their Catholic faith. Catholic nuns, who held vital roles such as schoolteachers and nurses, are immortalized in some of the street names.

While Front Street is the mecca for jewelry shopping, Pelican has the names that sparkle. Some notable addresses bear names such as Ruby, Peridot and Amber.

Top Hits in History

By Alita Singh

There is much more to St. Maarten/St. Martin than its sandy beaches and rolling green hills. A trip into the island's past as illustrated by its historical sites reveals a seriousness and purpose.

Fort Louis
Built as part of Sun King Louis XIV of France's vision to better defend his Caribbean holdings, Fort Louis has been guarding Baie de l'Embouchure since 1766. The fort, accessible by foot, gives a spectacular view of the French side capital, Marigot, as well as surrounding areas and the neighboring island, Anguilla. The location was chosen in 1666 by a French Naval Officer of the Engineering Corps, François Blondel, who was given the task of finding a suitable defensive position. The hill, close to the developing town, was selected as the ideal place to provide protection and fend off any English attacks.

Mount Vernon Plantation
Sitting on two acres of a lush, green valley, Mount Vernon Plantation takes visitors back to the sugar-making days of 1786. It is the only site on the island that has been restored to most of its authentic state. Guided tours recreate the processes of making sugar, coffee and rum. Surrounded by tropical fruit trees is the "Maison de Maître" (master's house), a stone and wooden structure of the rarest kind. Rounding off the plantation are gardens of spices. The plantation, a short distance from Orient Bay, is a place to see living history and discover the secrets of rum making and aromatic coffee brewing.

Fort Amsterdam
Christened Fort Amsterdam more than 270 years ago, the fort walls and sentry house are testimony to the strength of ancient building techniques. However, the "guardian" of Great Bay had one major flaw — its cannons and guns could not span the 1,600-meter-wide bay to adequately defend it. The site is accessible through Divi Little Bay Resort and is crisscrossed by hiking paths curling along the massive walls that lead to breathtaking vistas.

Emilio Wilson Estate
Emilio Wilson Estate, circa 1750, ties the past and present together like no other site on the island. Spanning from the valley to the top of Sentry Hill on the Dutch side, this former sugar plantation was the home of the island's first governor, John Philips, after whom Philipsburg is named. Plantation Industry, as Philips called it, was later acquired by the von Romandts, one of the first families to settle here. The oldest descendant of the family's Caribbean branch, Douglas Sinclair Cannegieter, still lives on Front Street and celebrated his 99th birthday in 2007. The estate was later sold to Emilio Wilson.

Saving Island History Through Postcards

The pristine yet to be developed hillsides, the serene Great Salt Pond, a quiet Princess Juliana International Airport, a busy market day on Marigot Waterfront. Those days were captured by photographers and are preserved on postcards — the staple souvenir of travelers.

Over 300 postcards spanning from the 1930s to present day are in the permanent collection of the St. Maarten Museum in Speetjens Arcade, located off Front Street in Philipsburg. The collection, including an acquisition of old photographs from the Royal Institute of the Tropics, is curated by Museum Director Elsje Bosch.

Bosch, a former schoolteacher, has always been a collector. The museum's establishment in which she played the lead role enhanced her ardent interest in island history and heritage further. "Postcards, maps and photographs chart history. Collecting and preserving them make sense. Every year, the National Museum asks the public to donate these items as they are a visible part of history," Bosch said.

Bosch acquired the postcards and photographs cataloguing "the island's fast and drastic changes" for the museum through donations, gifts and auctions, especially in the Netherlands.

Saving records of the island's ever changing landscape through postcards dating from the beginning of the tourism boom years has also become a passion for island resident Barbara Cannegieter.

What started as a record of her husband Diederick's postcards has now grown into collection of St. Maarten/St. Martin's past in photographs. "Sometimes, Diederick and I would go through the collection and recall some of the places that have really changed. Life on St. Maarten was very simple and uncomplicated. Although there were cars, as seen in some of the postcards, there were no traffic jams."

The printing of postcards for sale to tourists began in the 1960s with entrepreneur Guy Hodge taking photographs of points of interest, such as Front Street, Great Bay Beach, the now Cyrus Wathey Square and the Courthouse, which were by far the most popular and continue to be today.

Following Hodge's lead and sensing a niche in the market with the growing number of cruise passengers to the island, looking to take a piece of the island with them, Diederick also began taking photographs of Fort Amsterdam, at the cock fighting pit, in Marigot and in Philipsburg, amongst other locations. The photographs were sent to a Boston-based company, which designed the postcards and shipped them back to the island for Diederick. To date, Cannegieter Liquor Store on Front Street still does business with the company and sells postcards.

The collection of over 100 postcards started when Diederick began keeping a record of his work and postcards he sold in the store. Barbara later took up the collection and turned her attention to gathering as many "memories of old St. Maarten" as possible.

Venturing into cyberspace, Barbara sought these pieces of island photographic record by registering at websites like eBay.com. Over time, several postcards have come up for sale and were whisked away into Barbara's collection.

The Philipsburg Courthouse

Completed in 1793 at the order of Commander Willem Hendrik Rink, the Philipsburg Courthouse is one of the island's oldest monuments. Located on Front Street in the heart of the city's famed shopping and dining district, this charming two-story structure was severely damaged by a hurricane in 1819, and it wasn't until 1826 before it was fully rebuilt, this time sans the upper floor but with the addition of the familiar bell tower. In 1964, then Lt. Governor Beaujon ordered the second floor rebuilt, and in 1994-95, the courthouse underwent its most recent restoration and received its pineapple on tower as a symbol of St. Maarten/Martin's hospitality.

The Man Behind the Name

As you travel around the island, you may see the name Claude Wathey quite a bit: for instance, the pier in Pointe Blanche is named after him, as well as the Legislative Hall of the Government Administration Building.

The reason for this is his legacy as one of the most patriotic citizens and influential political figures in Sint Maarten/St. Martin's history.

Born Albert Claudius Wathey in Philipsburg, St. Maarten on July 24, 1926, he attended St. Joseph's School, which is still located on Front Street. His formal educational training was in business and hotel management. Wathey began his active political career in1950, winning his first Island Council Elections in 1951. He later went on to form the prominent Democratic Party of St. Maarten with Clem Labega in July of 1954. Wathey enjoyed an illustrious political career, becoming a senator in the Netherlands Antillean Parliament in 1962 and later holding other prominent posts, among them Commissioner of Tourism. His vision of tourism being the driving force behind the island's economy is one of his most important legacies, and to that end he helped engineer deals that brought major hotels to the island.

In addition, his pride as a Sint Maartener led him to help create a national holiday for the island. Thanks to his efforts and those of other prominent island residents like Labega and Dr. Hubert Petit, on November 11, 1962, St. Maarten Day was born, a holiday islanders celebrate with pride to this day.

Remembering When

When visiting St. Maarten/St. Martin, one of the most cosmopolitan and bustling islands in the Caribbean, it's easy to think that it was always like this. But if a time machine were handy and you set the dial to go back 40 years, you may not think you were on the same island.

"In the 1960s," says Mathias Voges, a historian and Acting Lieutenant Governor of Sint Maarten, "there were only a few stores on [Philipsburg's] Front Street." In addition to the stores, he says, there were "two small hotels, two churches, two schools and the rest were family homes." Instead of the cars and taxis you see today, explains Voges, "people got around by foot or donkey."

Cars were rare back then: according to Voges, there were only 400 in St. Maarten back in 1961. Of course, there also weren't that many inhabitants, either: Voges says that there were only about 1,500 people in Dutch St. Maarten in the 1960s. Today, of course, the numbers are dramatically different: 35,000 people on the Dutch side and 30,000 on the French side.

Back then, Sint Maarteners worked in the agriculture industry, government jobs or had small shops. For fun, they swam at the beach, fished and even played cricket.

But then the island's economy-and lifestyle-shifted dramatically with the advent of tourism. According to Voges, by the 1970s, among island residents "the trend to move out of town grew stronger." As such, the homes on Front Street gave way to businesses. For instance, Voges' own home-his birthplace, in fact-is now L'Escargot restaurant.

And more changes are on the way. According to Voges, the government is continuing its plans to improve Front Street with a $5.4 million facelift that includes expanded sidewalks, lush greenery and better access for the physically challenged, among other improvements. The end result? A better Sint Maarten for both residents and visitors to enjoy.

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