A Salty Past: History of a Friendly Island

By Alita Singh

Sunlight gleams from the hills of salt picked from the clear waters of Great Salt Pond. The salt picker lifts her head, shades her eyes from the crystallized grains and wonders about the world beyond the ocean that craves salt...

For more than two centuries, all the herring in The Netherlands had the taste of St. Maarten/St. Martin. Salt was harvested from the island's numerous ponds that were fed with pristine ocean water. The prized ingredient Europe craved was the reason the Dutch settled here in the 17th century. The island's strategic position in the northeastern Caribbean was also of paramount importance to the expanding seafaring country.

Settling here was not easy, but it was an enduring start to what became an over-three-century-long friendship and peaceful coexistence that grew from survival and battling a common enemy: the Spanish, the island's "owners."

St. Maarten/St. Martin was spotted by Christopher Columbus on November 11, 1493, during his second voyage to the New World, and it was named for St. Martin of Tours, on whose feast day it was seen. That date is now used to celebrate the ties between the 16-square-mile Dutch side and the 21-square-mile French side.

The Dutch established a settlement here in August 1631 after an Amsterdam squadron visited in 1627 and took back news about the abundance of salt. The Dutch were not the only ones on the island at the time. In what is now known as Quartier d'Orléans, a small French village of more than 14 families had already settled in 1629.

Mindful of Spanish attacks, the Dutch commenced work on a fort in the peninsula jutting out into Great Bay. To be later christened Fort Amsterdam, it was the frenzy of activity associated with putting up walls and placing cannons that aroused the interest and rage of the Spaniards.

Not willing to let any piece of their empire get taken away, they launched an attack on the Dutch "interlopers" in 1633. While this was a battle to regain the island, it was also linked to the two feuding nations' Eighty Years' War in Europe. The mighty Spanish won and sent the Dutch packing.

Determined not to lose the island again, the Spanish reinforced the fledgling fort and began work on a second fortification on the other side of the bay. Remnants of the Old Spanish Fort can still be found around Monte Vista, a community perched on the tip of the Pointe Blanche Peninsula.

The forts, though effective lookout points, were greatly flawed because their cannon range was not enough to protect the entire bay, leaving the way open for crafty intruders to lay siege to the island. The builders made one very bad mistake. They did not take into account that guns (of that time) could not cover the 1,600-meter-wide bay. This flaw was the key to the success of the Spanish reclamation of the island in 1633.

Feeling the acute loss of their strategically positioned provisioning station between their colonies of New Netherland (New York) and New Holland (Brazil), and a dip in salt revenues, the Dutch launched a counterattack in 1644. Led by Peter Stuyvesant, director of the Dutch West Indies Company and the last governor of New Netherland, the counterattack was a failure. Stuyvesant not only lost the battle but a leg, leaving him with a peg leg until his death.

After this disappointment, the Dutch didn't have to wait too long to return to the salty paradise. Preferring to concentrate their attention on Puerto Rico, the Spanish loaded up their ships and sailed out of Great Bay for good in 1648—leaving the island free for the Dutch to return.

This was the turning point for Soualiga (the island's Carib name meaning "Land of Salt") and the foundation of today's open border, which is simply marked with welcome signs along the road network. These border points are unique in that one can have one foot firmly planted in France and the other in The Netherlands.

The Dutch and the French settlers were keen on sharing the island in harmony and reaping the benefits of its soil, salt and strategic position in the Caribbean. Driven by this need, the two groups structured their co-ownership of the island by signing the Treaty of Concordia on March 23, 1648, the principles of which still govern their relationship. The treaty made the island the smallest piece of land shared by two sovereign powers: The Netherlands and France.

The southern part of the island, the Dutch side, is administratively part of The Netherlands Antilles, one of three partners that comprise the Dutch kingdom. The French side is an "overseas collectivity" of France and the westernmost tip of the republic.

A common question about the island is why the French side is larger than the Dutch side. Folk legend explains this peculiarity by pitting wine drinkers against those with a liking for gin. The story starts with a Frenchman armed with a bottle of wine and a Dutchman carrying a heavy flask of gin—both tasked with determining the border, which would depend on where they met after a walk around the island. Standing back-to-back, they began the walk. The Frenchman, taking leisurely sips of the wine, easily outwalked the Dutchman, who kept pausing for generous swigs of gin.

Salt harvesting and cultivation of cash crops on plantations worked by slaves imported from Africa drove the island's economy. Ships laden with salt, cocoa, sugar, cotton and coffee departed from the bays and headed to Europe and the United States for trade.

The island flourished until the plantation system crashed with the abolition of slavery in 1848 on the French side and in 1863 on the Dutch side. Salt kept the island buoyant until the early 20th century, when demand from the United States dwindled and salt pickers left in search of fortunes elsewhere in the Caribbean and South America. The last of the salt pickers left the salt flats on the Dutch side in 1949. The French side's production continued until 1967.

The small population began to shrink, and the island appeared to be sinking without a viable economic activity to keep it going. The growing popularity of air travel and travelers craving miles of white beach and a taste of the simpler life led to a rebirth for this Caribbean gem. The government's decision to remove all import and export duties in 1939 and the construction of Princess Juliana International Airport in 1943 marked the island's rebirth. Small hotels quickly sprang up to cater to visitors' needs. The completely duty-free status gave rise to shops selling a cornucopia of items such as designer jewelry, clothing and electronics.

This marked the start of a top-class, vibrant tourism industry that's the lifeblood of the island. With new opportunities forged by the booming industry, St. Maarteners/St. Martiners returned home to further boost the industry by taking care of the planeloads of visitors coming in from the United States and Europe.

Cruise ships began arriving 40 years ago, and now generate the majority of the island's income. The wooden A.C. Wathey Pier in Pointe Blanche, destroyed by Hurricane Luis in 1995, was the foundation on which the cruise sector was built. Now, Dr. A.C. Wathey Cruise and Cargo Facilities has a pier that can accommodate four large cruise ships at once.

To keep up with the growth of the tourism industry, a second pier, designed for two 220,000-ton cruise ships to berth alongside, is under construction and will welcome the first of these mega cruise ships, which is scheduled to be christened in 2009.

As tourists flooded in, so did people from almost every corner of the world. More than 104 nationalities call the island home, and their cultures pepper the local cuisine to create a blend found nowhere else in the Caribbean. World-class restaurants and tiny eateries tempting taste buds have earned the island the title of Culinary Capital of the Caribbean.

What's In A Name?

Getting lost in St. Maarten/St. Martin is an almost impossible task—and not because the island covers only 37 square miles. One main highway circles it, and staying on this path will take you through the changing landscapes, from bustling neighborhoods to rolling, velvety green hills.

The transition from one neighborhood to another is easily recognizable by the curious street names found printed on green reflective signs and on some maps that lay out paradise for you to explore. Many of the signs bear the Dutch words steeg, meaning alley, and straat, or street, as a subtle reminder of the link to The Netherlands. Rue, the French word for street, will become evident on the northern side of the island that is the westernmost part of the Republic of France.

In Philipsburg, the tiny alleyways pay homage to some of the oldest families who settled here over time and to salt picking, the main economic activity for many centuries. A notable alleyway is von Romondtsteeg, where the oldest descendant of the family lived well into his late 90s. Zoutsteeg (Salt Alley) used to be one of the main transportation routes to move salt from Great Salt Pond to awaiting Europe-bound ships in the bay.

Sitting on the southern tip of St. Maarten/St. Martin, Pointe Blanche's streets have the names of its oldest residents: the birds. It's easy to see how Ground Dove Road gets its name. A quick drive through it will send flocks of the brown birds into the air.

The sound of the ocean echoes in Guana Bay. Its street names, including Queen Couch and Ivory Shell, give a distinctive beachy feel to the neighborhood.

Middle Region's streets are a tour of the Caribbean; they bear the names of islands and countries in the region.

Artistic types will find the names of prominent painters gracing the streets of historic Madame Estate. People are the theme in the Dutch Quarter. Here, the names often reflect the old families whose land they cut across.

Old plantation names are revived in Belvedere. One of the newest neighborhoods, its street names keep a link to the area's past as part of the old sugar plantation from which its name is derived.

St. Peters/South Reward was the primary source of food for the island. The freshest vegetables and fruits were collected by the cartloads. Today, the fruit trees still sway in the wind—but the delicious-sounding names are the ones rich with history.

Fortification and defense play a prominent role in the winding hillside trails of Little Bay. Belair and Cay Hill are where all things wild roam. The streets have names such as Puma and Otter.

Evergreen, Cedar, Oak and Cashew are on the list of names that define Cole Bay, one of the largest and oldest neighborhoods. The letter "W" also surfaces in many of the names.

Simpson Bay, a fishing village that has grown into a bustling little town, keeps its old-time charm and its original residents' firm ties to their Catholic faith. Catholic nuns, who held vital roles such as schoolteachers and nurses, are immortalized in some of the street names.

While Front Street is the mecca for jewelry shopping, Pelican has the names that sparkle. Some notable addresses bear names such as Ruby, Peridot and Amber.

The Country Road

St. Maarten, the Dutch side, is at a unique juncture of its political history. The island is preparing to become "a country in the Dutch kingdom."

Country St. Maarten, voted for by the population on June 23, 2000, has long been fought for. The island will not become independent, but it will have more autonomy and control over its internal affairs with its own parliament.

The status of country will move the island from under the administrative wing of Curaçao, the capital of the five-island Netherlands Antilles — a non-independent country. The target date for the status change is tentatively set for December 2008.

Talks are ongoing to dissolve the more than 50-year-old grouping, which also includes Saba, St. Eustatius and Bonaire, as all islands have opted for different ties with the Netherlands.

By voting for separation from the Netherlands Antilles within the Kingdom of the Netherlands, St. Maarten will receive the status of "Koninkrijkseiland" ("Kingdoms' Island") within the Kingdom and the Netherlands Antilles will cease to exist. Curaçao will become the same type of associated state. Saba, St. Eustatius and Bonaire will become special municipalities.

St. Maarten's local government and people are keen to make more of their own decisions by cutting out a lot of the bureaucracy associated with the present grouping, and eventually become part of the EEC (European Economic Community).

Country status can only be achieved with the agreement of all partners in the Dutch kingdom, which includes Aruba, a nation that already has the status of country in the Dutch kingdom.

It's often asked why the island didn't opt for full independence. The answer to this is not simple. The population is currently very focused and eager to strike out on its own. Some sections of the island consider achieving country status a stepping-stone to becoming fully independent later on, while others see it as a way to have their individual needs taken into greater consideration.

Top Hits in History

By Alita Singh

There is much more to St. Maarten/St. Martin than its sandy beaches and rolling green hills. A trip into the island's past as illustrated by its historical sites reveals a seriousness and purpose.

Fort Louis
Built as part of Sun King Louis XIV of France's vision to better defend his Caribbean holdings, Fort Louis has been guarding Baie de l'Embouchure since 1766. The fort, accessible by foot, gives a spectacular view of the French side capital, Marigot, as well as surrounding areas and the neighboring island, Anguilla. The location was chosen in 1666 by a French Naval Officer of the Engineering Corps, François Blondel, who was given the task of finding a suitable defensive position. The hill, close to the developing town, was selected as the ideal place to provide protection and fend off any English attacks.

Mount Vernon Plantation
Sitting on two acres of a lush, green valley, Mount Vernon Plantation takes visitors back to the sugar-making days of 1786. It is the only site on the island that has been restored to most of its authentic state. Guided tours recreate the processes of making sugar, coffee and rum. Surrounded by tropical fruit trees is the "Maison de Maître" (master's house), a stone and wooden structure of the rarest kind. Rounding off the plantation are gardens of spices. The plantation, a short distance from Orient Bay, is a place to see living history and discover the secrets of rum making and aromatic coffee brewing.

Fort Amsterdam
Christened Fort Amsterdam more than 270 years ago, the fort walls and sentry house are testimony to the strength of ancient building techniques. However, the "guardian" of Great Bay had one major flaw — its cannons and guns could not span the 1,600-meter-wide bay to adequately defend it. The site is accessible through Divi Little Bay Resort and is crisscrossed by hiking paths curling along the massive walls that lead to breathtaking vistas.

Emilio Wilson Estate
Emilio Wilson Estate, circa 1750, ties the past and present together like no other site on the island. Spanning from the valley to the top of Sentry Hill on the Dutch side, this former sugar plantation was the home of the island's first governor, John Philips, after whom Philipsburg is named. Plantation Industry, as Philips called it, was later acquired by the von Romandts, one of the first families to settle here. The oldest descendant of the family's Caribbean branch, Douglas Sinclair Cannegieter, still lives on Front Street and celebrated his 99th birthday in 2007. The estate was later sold to Emilio Wilson.

Saving Island History Through Postcards

The pristine yet to be developed hillsides, the serene Great Salt Pond, a quiet Princess Juliana International Airport, a busy market day on Marigot Waterfront. Those days were captured by photographers and are preserved on postcards — the staple souvenir of travelers.

Over 300 postcards spanning from the 1930s to present day are in the permanent collection of the St. Maarten Museum in Speetjens Arcade, located off Front Street in Philipsburg. The collection, including an acquisition of old photographs from the Royal Institute of the Tropics, is curated by Museum Director Elsje Bosch.

Bosch, a former schoolteacher, has always been a collector. The museum's establishment in which she played the lead role enhanced her ardent interest in island history and heritage further. "Postcards, maps and photographs chart history. Collecting and preserving them make sense. Every year, the National Museum asks the public to donate these items as they are a visible part of history," Bosch said.

Bosch acquired the postcards and photographs cataloguing "the island's fast and drastic changes" for the museum through donations, gifts and auctions, especially in the Netherlands.

Saving records of the island's ever changing landscape through postcards dating from the beginning of the tourism boom years has also become a passion for island resident Barbara Cannegieter.

What started as a record of her husband Diederick's postcards has now grown into collection of St. Maarten/St. Martin's past in photographs. "Sometimes, Diederick and I would go through the collection and recall some of the places that have really changed. Life on St. Maarten was very simple and uncomplicated. Although there were cars, as seen in some of the postcards, there were no traffic jams."

The printing of postcards for sale to tourists began in the 1960s with entrepreneur Guy Hodge taking photographs of points of interest, such as Front Street, Great Bay Beach, the now Cyrus Wathey Square and the Courthouse, which were by far the most popular and continue to be today.

Following Hodge's lead and sensing a niche in the market with the growing number of cruise passengers to the island, looking to take a piece of the island with them, Diederick also began taking photographs of Fort Amsterdam, at the cock fighting pit, in Marigot and in Philipsburg, amongst other locations. The photographs were sent to a Boston-based company, which designed the postcards and shipped them back to the island for Diederick. To date, Cannegieter Liquor Store on Front Street still does business with the company and sells postcards.

The collection of over 100 postcards started when Diederick began keeping a record of his work and postcards he sold in the store. Barbara later took up the collection and turned her attention to gathering as many "memories of old St. Maarten" as possible.

Venturing into cyberspace, Barbara sought these pieces of island photographic record by registering at websites like eBay.com. Over time, several postcards have come up for sale and were whisked away into Barbara's collection.

The Philipsburg Courthouse

Completed in 1793 at the order of Commander Willem Hendrik Rink, the Philipsburg Courthouse is one of the island's oldest monuments. Located on Front Street in the heart of the city's famed shopping and dining district, this charming two-story structure was severely damaged by a hurricane in 1819, and it wasn't until 1826 before it was fully rebuilt, this time sans the upper floor but with the addition of the familiar bell tower. In 1964, then Lt. Governor Beaujon ordered the second floor rebuilt, and in 1994-95, the courthouse underwent its most recent restoration and received its pineapple on tower as a symbol of St. Maarten/Martin's hospitality.

The Man Behind the Name

As you travel around the island, you may see the name Claude Wathey quite a bit: for instance, the pier in Pointe Blanche is named after him, as well as the Legislative Hall of the Government Administration Building.

The reason for this is his legacy as one of the most patriotic citizens and influential political figures in Sint Maarten/St. Martin's history.

Born Albert Claudius Wathey in Philipsburg, St. Maarten on July 24, 1926, he attended St. Joseph's School, which is still located on Front Street. His formal educational training was in business and hotel management. Wathey began his active political career in1950, winning his first Island Council Elections in 1951. He later went on to form the prominent Democratic Party of St. Maarten with Clem Labega in July of 1954. Wathey enjoyed an illustrious political career, becoming a senator in the Netherlands Antillean Parliament in 1962 and later holding other prominent posts, among them Commissioner of Tourism. His vision of tourism being the driving force behind the island's economy is one of his most important legacies, and to that end he helped engineer deals that brought major hotels to the island.

In addition, his pride as a Sint Maartener led him to help create a national holiday for the island. Thanks to his efforts and those of other prominent island residents like Labega and Dr. Hubert Petit, on November 11, 1962, St. Maarten Day was born, a holiday islanders celebrate with pride to this day.

Remembering When

When visiting St. Maarten/St. Martin, one of the most cosmopolitan and bustling islands in the Caribbean, it's easy to think that it was always like this. But if a time machine were handy and you set the dial to go back 40 years, you may not think you were on the same island.

"In the 1960s," says Mathias Voges, a historian and Acting Lieutenant Governor of Sint Maarten, "there were only a few stores on [Philipsburg's] Front Street." In addition to the stores, he says, there were "two small hotels, two churches, two schools and the rest were family homes." Instead of the cars and taxis you see today, explains Voges, "people got around by foot or donkey."

Cars were rare back then: according to Voges, there were only 400 in St. Maarten back in 1961. Of course, there also weren't that many inhabitants, either: Voges says that there were only about 1,500 people in Dutch St. Maarten in the 1960s. Today, of course, the numbers are dramatically different: 35,000 people on the Dutch side and 30,000 on the French side.

Back then, Sint Maarteners worked in the agriculture industry, government jobs or had small shops. For fun, they swam at the beach, fished and even played cricket.

But then the island's economy-and lifestyle-shifted dramatically with the advent of tourism. According to Voges, by the 1970s, among island residents "the trend to move out of town grew stronger." As such, the homes on Front Street gave way to businesses. For instance, Voges' own home-his birthplace, in fact-is now L'Escargot restaurant.

And more changes are on the way. According to Voges, the government is continuing its plans to improve Front Street with a $5.4 million facelift that includes expanded sidewalks, lush greenery and better access for the physically challenged, among other improvements. The end result? A better Sint Maarten for both residents and visitors to enjoy.

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